Hog jowl is not exotic. It is not trendy. It is not something you share a photo of, or a hashtag for clout. It is jaw meat — salted, smoked and stubborn. And it is one of the main ingredients of Hoppin' John, a New Year's Day dish eaten by African Americans for generations to call in luck, survival and continuity.

Some time ago, I had the pleasure of attending Dave Chappelle's stand-up comedy show in Boston, and it was an evening filled with humor, une