Hog jowl is not exotic. It is not trendy. It is not something you share a photo of, or a hashtag for clout. It is jaw meat — salted, smoked and stubborn. And it is one of the main ingredients of Hoppin' John, a New Year's Day dish eaten by African Americans for generations to call in luck, survival and continuity.

When Old Massa was alive, I was young and strong as Alfred the ox. I was on the front line in our big fight with the Heywards. Scipio—he was a Heyward—and I got into a fight over a woman who used to live here. She’s dead now, but she was beautiful and she was my girl for a while.